THE OLFACTORY FAMILIES
These are fruits or raw materials and they are the soul of every perfume, and their
magical combination creates a symphony of emotions.
To help decode this magic, olfactory families were created,
which allow perfumes to be classified according to their constituent elements.
These olfactory facets, combined with their harmony, allow to complete
the description of each fragrance, revealing its true nature.
Why
This classification was developed to create a common descriptive language, which would allow everyone to better understand the fragrances that surround us.
For example, if a fragrance is composed of woods and citrus, there are two possible interpretations:
- if woods are the predominant note, we are talking about a woody fragrance with citrus facets, characterised by a dry and decisive beginning;
- on the contrary, if citrus fruits are the ones that prevail, the fragrance will be defined as citrus with woody facets, less persistent than the previous one.
"Knowing the ingredients of a perfume is certainly fascinating, but only their combination can capture its true essence."
Classifying and recognizing the dominant character of a fragrance is one of the keys to understanding its emotional message, immersing ourselves in its magic and appreciating its beauty.
Amber
"The fragrances belonging to this olfactory family are sensual and caressing, enveloping and elegant."
How do you get it?
Natural ambergris, coming from the bellies of sperm whales, is now a rare treasure, difficult to find and of inestimable value. In perfumery, the amber accord is recreated using vanilla, labdanum, benzoin and balsams.
of Peru and Tolu.
His Triumphal Entry
The first amber perfume, Ambre Antique by François Coty, was launched way back in 1908, starting a real trend in the world of fragrances in the 1920s. After being forgotten for several decades, the amber note returned forcefully to the forefront towards the end of the 1980s thanks to niche brands such as Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Serge Lutens and L'Artisan Parfumeur. Among the most famous amber perfumes of today, Alien by Thierry Mugler stands out.
Citrus or Hesperidic
The Eleventh Labor of Hercules.
"During his exploits, Hercules stole some apples. According to the ancients, this garden of the Hesperides where the apples were placed was located at the foot of Atlas."
How do you get it?
The citrus family consists of a wide range of fruits, including lemons, mandarins, oranges, grapefruits, and bergamot, along with more exotic varieties such as kumquats, limes, and yuzu. The essential oil derived from the peels of these fruits
gives a fresh and volatile note.
Thanks to modern technologies, all the volatile components of citrus juice can be cold-extracted, producing extracts with a concentration of aromatic elements 150 times higher than fresh juices.
His Triumphal Entry
In 1988, the dihydromyrcenol-citrus accord that inspired Davidoff's Cool Water brought a new freshness to the citrus family. This family of fragrances originated with Aqua Mirabilis by Giampaolo Feminis and evolved into traditional eau de Colognes such as Acqua di Colonia 4711 and Acqua di Parma .
The essence of citrus evokes sensations of freshness, sparkle and joy, as if you were immersed in a garden of the Gods, among the scents of golden apples and
of the evening nymphs.
Aromatic
"The essence of aromas, a precious gift of nature, spreads through the air, bringing with it the freshness and vitality of aromatic plants from the Mediterranean basin."
How do you get it?
These fragrant essences, different from dried spices, are used in cooking, perfumery and medicine, to give a touch of freshness and vivacity to compositions.
Among the most used aromatic plants, we find the fragrant thyme, the fragrant
sage, rosemary, mint and basil, alongside delicate notes of tea. Lavender, a symbol of the aromatic family, is often used in compositions to add freshness and a rustic touch.
These essences blend perfectly with marine and ozonic notes, creating a harmony of great dynamism and a sporty touch.
His Triumphal Entry
From the timeless English Lavender by Atkinsons from 1910 to Pour Un Homme by Caron from 1934, the category of aromas has evolved from monochromatic perfumes based on lavender to richer and more sophisticated compositions, using a wide range of olfactory nuances.
FLOWERS
"The universe of floral perfumes is a kaleidoscope of nuances, ranging from fresh to sensual. Floral fragrances evoke intense emotions, from seduction to richness, to delicate joy and tenderness."
How do you get it?
The floral perfume family is the quintessential feminine fragrance. From the purity of soliflore to the combination with other olfactory notes. The use of opulent flowers, such as jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang and tuberose, gives the fragrances an intense and rich effect. While the use of more delicate flowers, such as neroli, geranium, freesia and lily of the valley, gives the fragrance a softer freshness.
In addition to the wide range of natural flowers, perfumery also uses synthetic molecules to reproduce the scent of rare or delicate flowers to be extracted with traditional methods. This allows for the creation of fragrances with a modern olfactory touch.
His Triumphal Entry
Every flower inspires master perfumers and the list would be endless: from the rose loved by Parfums de Rosine , to the violet celebrated by Ludovico Borsari in Violetta di Parma ; from the intense tuberose of Chloe and Giorgio di Beverly Hills , to the jasmine symbol of Joy by Patou ; from the fresh and spring-like lily of the valley of Diorissimo by Dior, to the exotic ylang of Fidji by Guy Laroche .
Classic and elegant perfumes such as Chanel N. 5, Arpège by Lanvin, Vent Vert by Balmain and Chanel N. 19 are based on the synergy between flowers and aldehydes.
FOUGE'RE
"A magical symphony of aromatic notes, an enchanted structure of lavender, geranium, vetiver, oak moss and coumarin or tonka bean, adorned with fresh nuances that enhance its personality."
How do you get it?
This is the family of fougère perfumes, born from the famous Fougère Royale by Houbigant, created in 1882. Its name, although it may suggest a fern scent, is actually just a fantasy name.
These elements combine to create the classic and sophisticated structure of the fougère fragrance.
Lavender Base: It is the heart of the fragrance, giving freshness and a herbaceous touch.
Heart Notes of Geranium: Adds a green and fresh floral accent.
Oakmoss Accord: Provides depth and a moist, woody, earthy feel.
Top Notes of Bergamot: Adds a fresh, citrusy opening.
Touch of Coumarin: Provides a sweet, warm and slightly spicy undertone.
His Triumphal Entry
The virile and reassuring character of these creations has made them conquer the hearts of the male public, giving life to unforgettable triumphs such as Azzaro pour Homme, Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche and Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels . These
perfumes evoke security, refinement and the great masculine classic.
CYPRUS
"The refined, timeless and aristocratic elegance evoked by these fragrances is destined to enchant the soul."
How do you get it?
This accord is composed of a symphony of notes of bergamot, rose or jasmine, oak moss, patchouli and labdanum. Some of the original notes
(such as jasmine) have been replaced by synthetic molecules that
They give greater vigor to the compositions and a touch of modernity.
His Triumphal Entry
It was François Coty who composed the first chypre symphony, an ode to the island of Cyprus, a favorite destination for those who drank from high society. In an essence, the creator immortalized the sensations he felt during his journey: if his art had been painting, rather than perfumery, he would have painted an enchanted landscape.
Among the timeless fragrances belonging to this family, Mitsouko by Guerlain and Aromatics Elixir by Clinique are the most famous. In modern version, we find many fragrances, including Narciso Rodriguez for Her which is certainly the most successful.
WOODY
"The woody tones, in harmony with the floral or musky notes, give life to fragrances of rare elegance, subtle and original as only the elite can appreciate."
How do you get it?
Since time immemorial, woods have been the pillars of men's fragrances, carrying with them an aura of nobility and mystery. Their notes can be refreshed with a breath of marine, citrus or aromatic aromas, or made enveloping and sensual with touches of spices, leather, oriental, fruity, gourmand and chypre notes.
Among the great founders of this olfactory family is the famous Pino Silvestre by Vidal, a fresh woody fragrance that gave birth to a true dynasty of perfumes.
His Triumphal Entry
Over the years, its language has been joined by Fahrenheit by Dior with its vegetal and floral notes, Kenzo pour Homme with a hint of marine fragrance and Déclaration by Cartier with its lively and fresh notes of spices.
In the ancient alchemies of Guerlain and Chanel, it is spices, dried and traditional, that infuse essences with a vein of intense voluptuousness. But the magic does not stop there: in recent times, a new generation of notes has come to the fore, bringing with it the promise of amber woods . The magical word "amber" evokes a world of woody, fiery and pungent fragrances , with unique properties. This term encompasses a family of molecules with an impetuous and intense scent, such as Cashmeran, Cédramber, Iso E Super, Karanal, Amber Xtreme and Lorenox.
They are treasures highly prized for their persistence and their ability to diffuse through the air, bringing with them a sense of security, warmth and balance.
ORIENTAL
"In the realm of arcane oriental perfumes, the most beloved notes are like a symphony of spells. Essences of vanilla and ambergris intertwine their melodies, while sandalwood and patchouli dance together in a magical dance. The sweet resins of labdanum and benzoin combine with the most fragrant spices, such as cardamom, pink pepper, coriander, cinnamon and clove, to create a unique and unforgettable perfumed poem."
How do you get it?
This magical essence evoked a symphony of sweet and vanilla notes, embracing a bouquet of animal essences, including musk and ambergris, the latter emanating a woody essence, similar to tobacco.
His Triumphal Entry
It was Shalimar, the magician who inaugurated the legendary "guerlinade", a spell of vanilla and tonka bean that would enchant future creations of the Maison Guerlain. Its bottle, inspired by the majesty of Buddhist stupas, earned the honor of being the best artistic and decorative object at a prestigious exhibition in Paris in 1925.
Since then, the Maison Guerlain has continued to be fascinated by oriental notes, which have inspired many of their future wonders, from the celebrated Samsara of 1989 to the more recent Instant of 2003 and Mon Guerlain of 2018.
IMPORTANT
- It is important not to confuse ambergris or amber accords with yellow or vegetal amber, which is instead a fossil resin of ancient plants that does not have any odor.
- Don't confuse chypre with powdery!